Tropical Fish Information – Your Fish Tank Guru

The Nitrogen Cycle Part of the Ecosystem of a Freshwater Aquarium
By Jason MacParland

The nitrogen cycle is a natural process in any aquarium. It begins as soon as you add the first fish to the tank. Their waste products include ammonia, which starts the nitrogen cycle. During the initial setup period, it is important that you test the water quality daily, so that you can watch your tank progress through the stages of the nitrogen cycle.

In addition to simply adding fish to the aquarium, there are other ways to jump-start the nitrogen cycle. Those with saltwater aquariums can add live rock to begin the process. If you are setting up a freshwater tank, it is possible to add a cup of gravel from an established tank. Although it will contain the beneficial bacteria necessary for the nitrogen cycle, it may also contain unwanted bacteria or parasites, so this method should be used with caution.

When your new aquarium is first set up, it’s important not too add too many fish. Adding too many fish results in high levels of waste, which your new tank ecosystem may not be able to handle. As the ammonia levels spike, your fish could die. In fact, many experienced fishkeepers recommend beginning with a few inexpensive fish to begin the nitrogen cycle if you plan to keep exotic tropical fish in the aquarium. This way, if your first nitrogen cycle does not go as planned, you won’t kill off an expensive and rare fish.

As you add fish to the aquarium, ammonia levels will start to rise immediately. All of the food you put into the tank will eventually be converted into ammonia by your fish. You can expect ammonia levels to fluctuate as the aquarium ecosystem settles into a routine. However, ammonia buildup is dangerous for your fish. Signs that the ammonia is too high include red or bloodshot eyes, red inflamed gills, or red streaks on the sides of your fish. Ammonia levels of 0.25 to 0.5 parts per million (ppm) can stress your fish, while above 1.0 is considered lethal. Although it’s best to let the beneficial bacteria eat the ammonia, continuing the nitrogen cycle, if the levels get too high you should change 15 to 25 percent of the water to reduce ammonia levels. Reducing the amount of food you are feeding will reduce future ammonia levels.

Within two weeks of introducing the first fish to your new aquarium, a beneficial bacteria will start to eat the ammonia. This nitrifying bacteria converts ammonia into nitrites. Your tank may become cloudy during this stage in the process, as the bacteria multiply quickly to eat the excess ammonia. At this point, nitrites should begin appearing on your water test results.

In another week or two, you will start to see increasing nitrate levels on the water test strips. Moderate levels of nitrates cause no harm to your fish. They can build up, however, especially if you are not diligent about changing the water in the tank. If levels go above 80 to 100ppm, a water change can help increase the water quality in the aquarium. In addition to regular water changes, live plants can also remove nitrates from the aquarium environment.

The nitrogen cycle is a very important process in your aquarium. You can expect the full cycle to take anywhere from three to six weeks to become established. This step is crucial if you want the aquarium to be healthy, and it must be monitored closely with water test kits.

James MacParland is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great information on ecosystem of a freshwater aquarium, visit http://www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.com to learn more about setting up and maintaining a freshwater aquarium. Check out my site to learn more about the ecosystem of a freshwater aquarium and more.

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Introducing New Freshwater Fish to an Established Tank

By Jason MacParland

Aquarium owners wait for the day their tanks complete the nitrogen cycle so that they can finally add colorful fish to their aquariums. Although most people are in a hurry to add their newly acquired fish to their established tank but there are a few things that have to be kept in mind before putting your new fish in your tank. This article will elaborate on some things to keep in mind while introducing new fish to an established tank.

Quarantining New Fish

Fish purchased from the local fish shop should be first quarantined for a week before adding them to your established tank since many store bought fish are stressed out. A quarantine tank will allow your new fish to get used to your water parameters and this step will also ensure that parasites don’t enter your established tank. The quarantine tank should preferable be an established tank with a sponge filter and a few plastic plants. While putting the new fish in the quarantine tank you should first acclimatize your fish slowly to your water conditions so that they do not get more stressed.

Acclimatizing New Fish

The best way to acclimatize your new fish is to float the bag full of fish in the quarantine tank for 15 minutes so that the temperature of the water in the bag matches your aquarium’s temperature. You should then open the bag and add a cup full of water from your quarantine aquarium into the bag. You will need to add a cup full of water every 15 minutes to the bag full with fish so that the PH of the water in the bag matches the PH of your aquarium. After adding 3 – 4 cups of water you will need to net out the fish carefully and add them to your tank. It is advised not to empty the bag of fish directly into your established tank since store water usually contains pathogens and parasites. Aquarium salt can be used to de-stress your fish while they are in the quarantine tank. Aquarium salt also prevents the onset of various fish illnesses. The right dosage is 1 teaspoon aquarium salt per 10 gallons of water. It is always advised to mix the salt in a bucket of water and then pour the water into the tank.

Things to Remember

While introducing new fish to an established tank you should remember that quarantining your fish prevents them from getting stressed and this step also prevents your other fish from getting illnesses. After quarantining your fish for 1 week to 10 days you should net them out carefully and add them to your main aquarium. Many aquarium owners prefer to use a cup to scoop out fish rather than netting them since scooping out fish with a cup is less stressful. Fish that are hard to catch can be caught using the net and cup technique. This technique involves using a net to chase the fish into a cup. Fish nets should not be used for species that have barbs on their mouth.

James MacParland is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great information on aquarium freshwater fish, visit http://www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.com to learn more about setting up and maintaining a freshwater aquarium.

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By Jason MacParland

Aquariums contain substances that can be harmful for your fish if not kept in check. Aquarium water testing kits ensure that substances like ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are kept under control. Since there are various types of water testing kits, it can get confusing to choose the right kit. This article will elaborate on the various types of aquarium water testing kits available.

Checking the Ammonia levels in your Aquarium Water. Ammonia is released into the aquarium through fish poop and ammonia is also created by the gills of fish. This chemical is considered very toxic if the levels increase significantly. Water testing kits that test for ammonia indicate the levels of ammonia so that the owner knows when to change water in the aquarium.

What are Nitrites and Nitrate in Aquarium Water and why your should check the levels of both. Nitrite is created when the nitrifying bacteria convert ammonia to nitrites. Nitrites are a lesser toxic form of ammonia but Nitrites are also dangerous. The nitrifying bacteria convert nitrites to a lesser toxic form known as nitrates. Nitrates are controlled in the aquarium with the help of filters and water changes. Aquariums that have completed the nitrogen cycle only have nitrates in them. Nitrite and nitrate testing kits work on the same principal as ammonia testing kits.

How to be checking out the PH in your Aquarium Water. PH is a term used to indicate the hardness of the water. The PH 7 is considered as a neutral level while anything lower than 7 is considered acidic. PH that is higher than 7 is considered alkaline. PH testing kits test the hardness of the water and these kits are only used by fish keepers who keep delicate species of fish. Fish keeps that keep certain cichlids often use PH testing kits to know if they need to alter the water chemistry.

There are various types of kits available in the market. The colorimetric test kit if easy to use and alerts the user that the specific substance in high in the aquarium through the change of colors. In order to use these kits the person requires to put a few drops of the aquarium water on the strips provided. The kit contains instructions on the various colors that will appear on the strip if the water contains a specific substance. Titrimetric test kits use a reagent to test the water. In this type of test kit the water a few drops of water have to be put in a glass container and the reagent has to be added to the water. If the water contains high levels of the specific substance then the color of the water will change. Stick on aquarium water testing kits are easy to use but they are not precise. A ticker is provided in these kits and these stickers have to be stuck inside the tank. These stickers change color when the water contains a specific substance.

Things to Remember about water chemistry in your freshwater aquarium. While using water testing kits you should remember that the PH of the water does not need to be changed for most fish. Most tap water after water conditioners are normally 7.0 Ph. If you feel the need to change the PH of the water then you should use driftwood to lower the Ph or crushed coral to increase the PH.

Jason MacParland is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great information on how to find out ammonia levels in freshwater aquariums, and other water chemistry issues visit http://www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.com to learn more about setting up and maintaining a freshwater aquarium.

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Treating Common Ailments in Freshwater Aquarium Fish
By Jason MacParland

Although partial water changes and good quality food lower the chances of fish ailments, fish keepers should always know ways to treating common ailments in freshwater aquarium fish. There are many diseases that can strike fish and while some of these diseases are rare, others are more common. This article will elaborate on all you need to know about treating common ailments in aquarium fish.

Illness in Fish

Aquariums contain many parasites that cause diseases like hex, ich, hole in the head disease, velvet and dropsy. Fish that have a healthy immune system fight off these parasites but fish that are stressed out get affected by these parasites. Partial water changes and good food ensure that your fish have a strong immune system.

Treating Ich

Ich is also known as white spots since the main symptom of this disease is white spots on the body of the affected fish. Fish that are affected by ich often scratch their bodies on decorations and the glass which causes wounds along with secondary infection. Treatment of this disease consists of raising the temperature of the water by 2 – 3 degrees and using 1 teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon water. If the affected fish does not improve with this course of treatment then you can use malachite green or methylene blue to treat the fish.

Treating Hole in The Head

Hole in the head is caused due to a lot of factors but the most common cause is bad water conditions. The main symptom of this illness is a hole in the forehead of the fish. Angelfish, Oscars and discus are often affected by this illness. Treatment of this illness consists of improving water quality by changing 30% water every 2 days for 1 month. While changing the water you should also use 1 teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon water. After this disease has been cured you should continue to maintain water quality so that your fish are not affected by this illness again. A combination of Marcyn medications are sometimes used to treat hole in the head disease.

Treating Dropsy

Dropsy in fish is caused due to bacteria and symptoms of dropsy include a swollen tummy and scales that protrude like a pine cone when looked from above. This disease is considered fatal and hard to treat if not caught in time. Treatment of dropsy consists of using Epsom salt to extract water from the body of the fish. Anti bacterial medicines like teramycin can also be used but antibiotics should be used if Epsom salt does not work.

Assembling a First Aid Kit for Fish

Your first aid kit for treating common ailments in aquarium fish should contain aquarium salt, Marcyn I, Marcyn II, teramycin, metronidazole and Epsom salt. You should replace medicines whenever you use them and you should replace medicines that have expired.

Note

While treating common ailments in aquarium fish you should partially change the water once to keep the nitrate levels in control. It is important to remember that copper based medications kill invertebrates, plants and scale less fish so these medicines should be used with caution.

Jason MacParland is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great information on home freshwater aquariums, visit http://www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.com to learn more about setting up and maintaining a home freshwater aquarium.

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How to Select Fish For Your New Freshwater Aquarium
By Jason MacParland

New freshwater aquariums owners often can’t wait to add a lot of colorful fish to their established tank. While it is tempting to add the best looking fish to the first aquarium it is beneficial to select compatible fish so that the chosen fish live happily. This article will provide information on how to select fish for your new aquarium.

Requirements of Various Fish

Barbs are tetras are small colorful fish that look very beautiful. The tetras available in local fish shops are usually less than 1.5 inches while the barbs available in local fish shops are usually less than 2.5 inches. Barbs make great additions to a community tank but some barbs like tiger barbs are known to nip fins so they should be kept in a species only tank. Tetras on the other hand do well in small schools since they feel comfortable when they are with others of their own species. Small loaches and cory cat fish can be kept with barbs and tetras.

Livebearers like guppies and swordtails can be kept in community tanks since they are peaceful. Since mollies require brackish water to grow well it is recommended not to keep mollies with freshwater fish.

Goldfish are cold water fish that should not be mixed with tropical water fish since their temperature requirements are different.

Bettas a very beautiful and common fish are very territorial fish and males should be kept alone. Female bettas can be kept in groups of five or more provided there is enough place to hide.

Cichlids are aggressive fish that need to be kept with compatible tank mates. Oscars are large cichlids that should be kept alone. Cory cat and clown loaches fish do well in small schools.

Things to Keep in Mind

While learning how to select fish for your new aquarium you should remember that your aquarium should not be over crowded. Fish in overcrowded aquariums are prone to illnesses due to stress and bad water conditions. The fish you choose should also be comfortable in the aquarium you have. Small fish like neons and barbs can be kept in aquariums more than 10 gallons but Oscars or other larger fish need bigger aquariums. Plecos that are commonly sold as sucker catfish grow to a length of 24 inches and they should not be kept in tanks that are lesser than 60 gallons.

While selecting fish for your new aquarium you should stock your tank based on the adult size of the fish. Oscars are large fish that reach a size of 12 inches and Australian arowanas can reach a size of 26 inches. The inch per gallon rule is not the right way to calculate the number of fish you can keep since this rule is only meant for slim bodied fish like tetras. As a general rule you should give 20 gallons of water per goldfish, 55 gallons of water per Oscar, 2 gallons of water per tetra or barb and 5 gallons of water per betta. Small sized loaches and cory cat fish should be given 5 gallons of water per fish. Since clown loaches can grow to a size of 18 inches and they need to be kept in small schools these fish should be kept only in large tanks.

James MacParland is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great information on freshwater aquarium fish, visit http://www.easyfreshwateraquariumcare.com to learn more about how to pick the right freshwater aquarium fish as well as properly setting up and maintaining a freshwater aquarium.

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Hello All Tropical Fish Enthusist,

Check out my good friend Jason McParland’s new Tropical Fish website on Freshwater Aquarium Maintance – Easy Freshwater Aquarium Care. Join his 10 Day eCourse and check out his new ebook on Freshwater Aquarium Care.

Hello,

I was looking to see how I could improve my aquarium and some times it is good to go back to the basics. So I decided to buy a couple of books including both traditional and ebooks. A really great book for the beginner is David E. Boruchowitz book The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums. In which you learn the basic, some nice hints and even going as far as stating what tropical fish a beginner should and should not get.

The book also is very easy to read and great pictures. So if you get a chance I would get this book.